I have always heard amazing stories about the German Christmas markets, so for our first Christmas here I had to check them out. One of the cities with the most, and reputedly some of the best, markets is Cologne so we headed there first. It didn’t hurt that it was also a 3.5 hour drive. To add to the fun, our friends from Paris took the train and joined us.
The markets typically open mid-late November and close on December 23. A few stay open after Christmas, but not many so make sure to check if you plan to go between Christmas and New Years.
The history of Christmas markets in Cologne dates back to the 1820s, but 65 years later, Cologne’s city council banned the markets because they deemed them too large and too loud. The next market was not held until 1970.
Over the course of the weekend we were able to check out five markets. Each one has its own souvenir mug. You pay a deposit of €3 when you buy your Glühwein (hot mulled wine) or hot chocolate. If you want to take it home go ahead, if you don’t you can return it and get your deposit back. Some people collect a mug from each market they go to. I decided to only bring home the ones I liked the most.
Weihnachtsmarkt am Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral Christmas Market) is the biggest and certainly the best known of all the markets so it draws the most visitors. But this doesn’t mean it is the best. If you are going, hit this one first because it gets very busy and crowded. Uncomfortably crowded.
Heinzels Wintermärchen (Fairytale Market) is where you will find ice skating and wood carving. The rink is open until early January, but if you want to go skating, make sure to book this in advance, it gets really busy. This market named after the Heinzelmännchen (elves), little creatures who used do housework as people slept.
Markt der Engel (The Angels’ Market) was one of my favorites. It opened in the 1970s and is one of the markets that helped build Cologne’s reputation as a destination for Christmas markets. It is different from the other markets in appearance, with white-washed booths and lighted paper stars. This is also where you will find angels on stilts. It is a bit away from the central area, so we drove there, but it is walkable. It is closed on Sundays, so make sure you don’t plan it for that day.
Kölner Hafen-Weihnachtsmarkt (Harbour Christmas Market) was another of my favorites. We went and night, which I would recommend, it was beautifully lit up and has a great view of the Rhine. If you are interested in visiting the Chocolate Museum, you can check that out at the same time since it is next to the museum, just check their hours. The merchants have more nautical themed items, along with the standard Christmas fare. It is not a big market, but it is enjoyable.
Nikolausdorf (Nicholas Village) market was where our group enjoyed the food most. Can you say swinging sausages? I also loved the advent calendar above the sausage booth.
Red, White and Tulips 